Over the past decade, rail uniforms – and the operations around them – have evolved in line with the industry’s priorities. Technology now makes ordering garments easier than ever, while train operators are gradually recognising that workwear should be inclusive, as well as cost-effective and durable.
There is also a growing focus on sustainability. Bespoke uniform supplier Jermyn Street Design (JSD) helps train operating companies (TOCs) to create workwear that will support their own sustainability goals, exploring everything from sourcing to garment lifecycles.
Sustainability audits
For existing clients looking to make their uniform-ranges greener, the first step is often a sustainability audit, conducted by JSD.
“It’s our responsibility to look at what we have been giving them,” explained sales and marketing director Ann Dowdeswell. “We take them through everything, from design all the way to end of life management. We touch on everything in between, too – sourcing, packaging, how we transport.”
After carrying out their audit, JSD can suggest and implement changes that will make clothing more sustainable.
“We’re replacing normal polyester with recycled polyester, using more sustainable yarns, making the garments last longer,” Ann said. “We make them machine washable on a cold cycle, and have even done cold wash trials. We pick apart all those elements, so that we can give clients the best possible options.”
This scrutiny extends to packaging, and JSD can dual-pack items to reduce the amount of plastic used.
“In terms of end of life, we’re also looking at taking garments back and using them for another process. That could mean pulling them apart, sending them to charity, or reusing elements of them in other industries – for door or mattress filling, for example,” she explained.
Ann acknowledges that there is no “magic quick fix”; instead, improving sustainability is a journey, and JSD carry out audits for its clients every 12 months.
“It’s a gradual, collaborative process, and we’ll amend a client’s range product by product,” said senior account manager Jo Fornear. “It would be too expensive to do it all in one go, so we often do it piecemeal, starting with the big hitters – products that we sell the most.”
When it is approached by a new client, JSD will always outline the sustainable options, explaining how clothing could be made more environmentally friendly.
“For example, we’ll say, ‘could we source closer to home? It might cost a bit more, but the benefits are X, Y, and Z’” Ann added. “We try to give carbon footprints where possible.”
Sourcing and supply chains
Historically, JSD has sourced garments and accessories overseas – but the workwear specialist is now building supply chains in the UK.
“We’re basically trying to educate and inform our clients, because we’ve got a set of suppliers in the UK, near shore, and far shore,” Ann explained. “They all have the credentials that are needed for sustainability.”
With many TOCs introducing Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) strategies, accountability and supply chain transparency are also key. Ann will soon be flying to Bangladesh with a key travel client, which visits the factories that produce its garments almost every year.
“It’s not just sustainability – it’s about worker rights, and complete transparency in how we manage our supply chains,” Ann commented. “We need to make sure that factories are responsible, in terms of both the environment, and workers’ rights. Clients expect us to have that wrapped up.”
To achieve this, JSD uses a range of online tools, including SedEx and EcoVardis. SedEx is a global platform, via which Ann and the team can view their suppliers’ audits and identify any compliance issues. EcoVardis, meanwhile, enables JSD to share its own credentials.
“We say we do everything perfectly, but this is our clients’ windows into our processes,” commented Ann.
Jo and Ann agree that, while a growing number of clients are turning their attention to sustainability, change will happen slowly.
“It’s really about informing them, and allowing them to make the decision, balancing out budgets with their own sustainability goals,” Ann concluded.
